The Sweet Tidings

hana no kage / aka no tanin wa / nakari keri
Under the cherry blossoms
strangers are not
really strangers
-Kobayashi Issa

The last time I saw cherry blossoms was way back in 2017 in South Korea. Spring in Seoul was a delightful excursion for the soul. I still remember the euphoric feeling of sitting on a park bench in Yeouido Hangang Park while soaking in the sights of bright cherry blossoms rustling in the wind. The breeze coming from across the iconic Hangang River gently shook some beotkkot 벚꽃 trees (as Koreans would refer to sakura) that sent some petals flying my way. I was in my silly K-drama phase and the random shower of petals falling five centimeters per second reminded me of playful K-drama spring time scenes from Hello, My Teacher, a Gong Yoo and Gong Hyo-Jin starrer which up to this day remains to be my yardstick for the ultimate rom-com drama. The scent of pine trees wafting from the traditional forest section of the park intermingled with the scent of springtime flowers that permeated the comfortably chilly cardigan weather. It was a Seoul-ful spring day and I was lucky to bask in perfect meteorological conditions so conducive for daydreaming and napping under the blossom studded sky. If only I could bottle that beotkkot experience in Seoul, I would.

Cherry blossom, sakura or beotkkot is Japan's de facto fabled flower symbol and universal harbinger of spring. Of course, the authentic sakura hanami needs to be experienced in Japan if one desires to understand the cultural significance of this delicate flower that blooms only for a limited number of days. During the first four days of April this year, I visited Tokyo with a beloved college friend to experience the centuries old Japanese tradition of hanami where friends and family would stroll and enjoy a picnic under a canopy of sakura trees. The ephemeral, ethereal, and transient nature of sakura blossoms somewhat allowed us to reflect on the fleeting years of our youth. We reminisced about university life and yearned for the youthful season when we were free spirited, energetic and free to eat whatever the hell we wanted. Just like in that Taylor Swift song, the spring season of our lives were marked with happiness, freedom, confusion, a bit of loneliness, misery and magic. Now that we are pushing 50 (despite feeling eternally 22), it is both silly and sad to admit that we are no longer spring chickens. Trekking through Tokyo's serpentine rail system and climbing steep subway staircases would hilariously put random aches on our hips and knees. I was very happy that my friend decided to join me for this hanami trip as the sakura is an enduring symbol of friendship. She was also on the hunt for a childhood classmate named Sakura whom she hasn't seen for 40 years and so this trip was quite providential.

Arriving in Tokyo just in time for the predicted peak sakura week was daunting weather-wise. The city was not blessed with perfect spring weather like the one I experienced in Seoul. Brief winter chills returning in spring (Kan no modori in Japanese) is characteristic of Japan's quirky weather. Fraught with freezing rain and miserable downcast skies, Tokyoites were not running around in cheery, spring inspired pastel outfits. Instead, everyone was still dressed in late winter garb. Everywhere we went, streets were filled with transparent umbrella toting commuters, each one raring to come home to a warm bed and meal after a long and toxic work day. Such is life in Japan. However, despite the frenzied speed of Tokyo life, an invisible, unwritten, underlying sense of organization and structure afforded a sense of zen even if one is vacuum packed inside a crowded subway car during rush hour.

Despite the unfriendly weather, we managed to dress warmly the best way we could. We bought our own 600 yen transparent rain umbrella from a nearby Family Mart to blend in with Tokyo's frenetic crowd. This type of umbrella is incredibly handy when crossing Tokyo's pedestrian lanes where congregating crowds can resemble a battlefield.

I get especially lethargic and moody when faced with below 10C temperatures with rainy conditions. I reminded myself that chasing sakura blossoms is like chasing Aurora borealis in the Arctic circle. You just have to show up and pray that Mother Nature will be gracious enough to bless you with a life changing shower of sakura petals or a glimpse of the dancing Northern Lights. Between having to choose between Aurora and Sakura I will choose the latter.

The weather definitely limited our ability to visit all the places listed on our itinerary so we focused on the parks and gardens. After all, we were in Tokyo to chase after sakura blooms and petals. However, I do regret being unable to visit Tsukiji Outer Market during Tokyo's weather tantrum. Maybe next time.

We originally planned to visit Koishikawa Korakuen in Bungkyo but decided to visit instead the more popular Rikugien Gardens (six poems garden) in the Komagome neighborhood in Toshima ward. Considered to be Tokyo's most beautiful Japanese garden, Rikugien is a breathtaking Edo period scenic daimyo strolling park surrounded by Oizumisui Forest. Built in the 1700s for the 5th Tokugawa shogun, the gardens are inspired by Waka poetry. The gloomy weather persisted when we visited the garden. Traipsing along the camellia lined paths of mossy slopes fortified with ancient pine trees and sakura trees dripping with soft, dewy rain was in itself a poetic experience. The sight of mist arising from the earth and the smattering of rain leaving concentric ripples on the pond's surface evoked a meditative mood. Somewhere, the cry of a large-billed crow punctuated the silence. We spotted a team of ducks enjoying the spattering rain, their delightful whistles lifting the somber mood of the rainy afternoon.

From any vantage point, we felt like we stepped inside a Chinese landscape ink wash painting. Moon bridges or sori-bashi connected various parts of the garden inspiring contrasting emotions of elation, contemplation, grief or transcendence.

As the gardens were closing at 5 PM, we had no time to indulge in reveries and reflections or stop for a cup of green tea at the Fukiagejaya Tea House. I deeply regret we didn't have the whole day to do a complete scenic stroll, sit still under solitary pine trees or contemplate the 88 miniature gardens depicted from Japanese poems and Kishu Wakanoura. I took as many pictures as I could so I can revisit the garden scenery and attempt to write haiku on my free time. The garden has a playful side. My favorite spot would have to be the secret hiding places where the pink camellias bloom.

No one will understand a Japanese garden until you've walked through one, and you hear the crunch underfoot, and you smell it and you experience it over time. Now there's no photograph or any movie that will give you that experience.

-J. Carter Brown

En route to Rikugien Gardens, we chanced upon Komagome Higashi, a children's park surrounded by medical/veterinary clinics, apartments, and school houses. It is a lovely secret park with giant cherry blossom trees, playground sets, children's garden, park benches and whimsical stone walkways. It's another K-drama perfect location so suitable for after work meet-ups, romantic dates and children playdates. We would have lingered longer in this park but Rikugien Gardens promptly closes at 5 PM and getting there takes at least 15-20 minutes by foot.

Another highlight of this short Tokyo trip was a rainy walk along the Meguro River Cherry Blossom Promenade. The morning weather was once again dark, gloomy and freezing! It was also quite tricky navigating the streets of Nishi Meguro ward under the rain. Despite the relentless moderate drizzles, there was quite a handful of people (I guess mostly tourists) ready to brave the cold temperatures to catch a view of the 800 Somei Yoshino cherry blossom trees lining the Meguro River. The leafy promenade is an 8-kilometer walk through stylish neighborhoods and the river eventually empties out into Tokyo Bay. The temperature registered 7-8C that morning and we weren't thrilled about staying outdoors for longer. On the way back to Meguro Station which was an uphill climb, we stopped by at a Family Mart convenience store to thaw our frozen fingers. We got some ready-to-eat bentos and snacks since we were hungry and cold. Near Meguro Station, we managed to have some energy left to explore Atre Meguro, a big shopping center with lots of shops and restaurants.

One of the shops I often look out for in train stations and malls is the Aoyama Flower Market Tokyo. The floral offerings are always captivating every season and I always stop by to appreciate the blissful blooms. I would have bought myself a greens mix arrangement but this trip was just too short. Just imagine adorning your hotel room with these lovely blooms for a touch of beauty and healing. The next time I visit Japan I shall treat myself to a seasonal bouquet.

Accuweather predicted warmer weather for the weekend. The best highlight of this trip would have to be the almost perfect sakura hanami experience that happened on our last day in Tokyo. The gloomy and miserable cold temps gave way to a milder temperature of 18C with matching sunny blue skies. Finally, the sakura trees were ready to dazzle in cashmere cardigan weather.

We didn't waste any time since we only had half a day to enjoy the sunshine and sakura trees at Ueno Park in Taito City. We raced to Sugamo Station to catch a 20-minute ride to Ueno Station via Yamanote Line. Apparently, it seemed that the rest of Tokyo urbanites had the same idea! It's a good thing we arrived just in time for the park's opening hour so the crowds were manageable and not Disneyland crazy on Halloween. We even got some precious minutes to spare to visit the National Museum of Western Art just adjacent to Ueno Park.

Let me tell you that walking through cherry blossom trees while petals float in the breeze is the coziest and sweetest feeling ever. No wonder the Japanese are obsessed with this tradition. It was a dreamy, absolutely dreamy day in Ueno Park. I could go back in a heartbeat.

Spring is indeed a wonderful season in Japan despite the crazy, random rainy weather this year. To more sakura picnics in the future. Thank you Tokyo and we hope to see you again. Arigatou gozaimasu ありがとうございました!